Sometimes mirror-polished for a shiny look, sometimes satin-brushed for a matt finish, black zirconium is a key element in the composition of the cases and floating lugs of the DB28 The multiple ways in which the light plays across the material and its various finishes reveal countless different tones ranging from anthracite grey to intense black. This pleasing aesthetic effect was already greatly appreciated on the DB28 dials, which opened a window onto the movement alternating between the sophisticated elegance of hand-polished bridges and the understated charm of Côtes de Genève reinterpreted by De Bethune.
In its research on materials and new processes, De Bethune saw the choice to machine zirconium as a natural and sustainable alternative for the colour black. The hardness of the metal as together stable oxidation that is unaffected by daily changes in temperature are twin assets that guarantee the resistance and durability of the exterior of a timepiece.
Adorned with its famous crown at 12 o’clock, the DB28 which is known for the surprising lightness of its case and the comfort of its floating lugs – a patented system that adapts to the size of the wrist and its various movements – is as supple as ever, since the lightness of titanium is replaced by that of zirconium.
New variations around a flagship model, featuring a contemporary design paradoxically inspired by that of historical pocket watches, highlight the technical breakthroughs achieved by the Manufacture and the meticulous decoration work of its artisans, custodians of age-old expertise.
DB28 Black matte – understated elegance
Having won the 2011 “Aiguille d’Or”, the highest distinction awarded by the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, for its DB28 model, De Bethune now offers a black interpretation of its iconic model.
The DB28 Black matte is equipped with DB Calibre 2115 which is endowed with the technological innovations developed and produced within the Manufacture. Its precision is further consolidated by the self-regulating twin barrel and by the presence within the regulating organ of a silicon/palladium balance wheel and a balance-spring with a flat terminal curve, protected by the triple pare-chute system.
As one can see from careful observation of the sky, moon phases are read off on an exclusive display by means of a platinum and blued steel sphere spinning on its axis and boasting a degree of precision equivalent to a mere one-day difference every 122 years.
DB28 T Black gold – sophisticated elegance
The DB28T is powerded by DB Calibre 2009, a mechanical hand-wound movement equipped with the De Bethune silicon/titanium tourbillon. De Bethune has undertaken a complete rethinking of the tourbillon in terms of its use in wristwatches. The laws of physical are implacable: to compensate for the random “violence” of wrist movements, the carriage must be as light as possible, with a high frequency and a maximum rotation speed, along with minimum weight and inertia. Based on new technologies, De Bethune has developed an 0.18 g silicon-titanium tourbillon fitted inside a carriage that spins on its axis every 30 seconds, and equipped with a balance-wheel oscillating at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour. This tourbillon is the lightest on the market (classic tourbillons are four times heavier) and comprises 57 parts, of which the lightest weighs less than 0.0001 grams and the heaviest 0.0276 grams!
Functions: Hours - minutes – spherical moon-phase indication at 6 o’clock - power reserve situated on the back – performance indication between 2 and 3 o’clock
Movement: Calibre DB 2115 - mechanical hand-wound
Power reserve: 6 days
Case: Grade 5 titanium, distinctively shaped – diameter 42.60mm
Attachments: short or long floating lugs* in grade 5 titanium
Back: solid, in mirror-polished grade 5 titanium - linear power-reserve indicator